Showing posts with label Meningie. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Meningie. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Return to the Grampians

All these images are from my phone. This trip took place over three months ago, and due to one thing and another I still haven't even started to go through the camera archives yet, though it was simple enough to go through the phone pics and chronicle the trip. The truth is, for 80% of the trip, the weather was horrible. I took about a quarter as many photos as I'd imagined I would, and in rotten-light conditions, the phone does a job almost as good as the camera. So -- let's run with the phone pictures, yes?

The trip all started with a stack of baggage ... you'd have thought we were off to Antarctica for six months! No ... "just" the Grampians for five days:


Getting out early, you cross the Murray River at Wellington...


...and you aim for breakfast in Keith, on the Duke's Highway, only to discover that it's actually lunch by the time you get there! So --


-- the Henry + Rose Cafe, very nice, with good food. The weather was steadily going downhill as we headed east, though, but the sun still shone in patches, between broad cloud banks:


The state line is right there. Welcome to Victoria ... and slow down. The speed limit is lower, east of the border. So -- onward, through little towns and agricultural communities...


Above: canola fields near Kanvia. The Duke's Highway turns into the Western Highway at the border, but we always think of it as "east," not west! This time around, we left the main E-W highway at Nhill, turning south to take a look at the Little Desert National Park --


-- which, to South Aussie eyes doesn't actually look like a desert at all. Maybe it's seasonal? So much of SA looks like this pretty much all the time, one is reluctant to call it a desert. Then, it's not so far from there to the beautiful Wartook Valley. And whaddaya know --


Above: A rainbow over Wartook Valley. Now, that bodes well. You see the Grampians low down on the horizon from the valley. While Dave stretched the legs I played with the phone, and managed to get a selfie where I didn't look like Marley's Ghost:


There you are -- that proves I was on the trip! Dave did take a few shots of me here and there, and I managed to get several of him. He likes to play around, so pictures of him are often something of a laugh riot. And why not?

You don't have time to tarry long on breaks ... not if you want to get there on the same day! Apparently, you can drive Adelaide to Halls Gap in six hours, but we usually take nine or ten over it. Then again, we always get there safely, without being totally wasted. So.

When you head into the National Park, all at once the road turns UP, and twists and twines constantly for about the next 30k. Glorious views from the roadside as evening settles --


Above: Lake Wartook, the reservoir, seen from Reid's Lookout. It was actually quite dark by now; enhancement on the image brightens it up. It had also been raining recently...


Halls Gap was quite damp as well as quite dark. (And you can see what I mean about the weather. When it didn't actually rain, the sky was deeply overcast. Mostly, I put away the camera and just sat back for the trip!)

Time to check in, unload, get dinner, sleep. We were booked into the Halls Gap Log Cabins:




Wonderful ... all the comforts of home. Each cabin is like a small house, with every amenity imaginable, with the exception of a washer and dryer. And who wants to do laundry on  trip?!


Above: Rainy, misty and COLD in the morning. Luckily, we'd got brilliant pictures back in March, because the images from Cathedral Rock (seen here off the Mount William road) are gray and soft. Rain was threatening, and the wind cut like a knife. The cold abated a little by the time we arrived at Sundial Lookout and took the Lake View Lookout trail:




Still not warm, but not so windy, and the mist was clearing. I crossed my fingers, hoping to get good photos as the say went on. So, leaving Sundial, we headed to Silver Band Falls, which is a good hike down into a gorge to reach this:



Not a heck of a lot of water in it, when you consider that this is the end of the rainy season, and it should be running hard and fast. Hmm. So -- back on the road. Below, top: Mount Zero Road. Center: Canola fields in Wartook Valley, looking toward the Grampians. Bottom:  Sunset from Reid Lookout. It wasn't spectacular at all ... too much heavy weather.




Next morning we spent a couple of hours at the Brambuk Cultural Centre, which is a chastening experience. One is rocked back by the history of this country's indigenous people. I find it astonishing that any of them survived at all, and ... so sad. One could wish for a time machine, go back and change it, find the people responsible, and stop them ever arriving in Australia...



From Brambuk, we headed outward to explore. Lunch found us on the freezing, wind-swept heights of One Tree Hill above the town of Ararat. Yes, we visited Mount Ararat earlier; I photographed that with the cameras, not this phone. It's not what you'd call ... spectacular, but we did it! However, the views from the top of One Tree were amazing:


And from Ararat we headed back around the Grampians in a great circle. The area south of Ararat is big on canola, and the afternoon sun shone, making for some stunning photos at last:




By the time we were south of the Grampians and about to head back up the west side, toward Wartook, we'd run back into gray weather. This is Mt. Sturgeon, near Dunkeld ... the Grampians end (or begin!) right here, on the south tip of the range.


Dunkeld to Cavendish offered some amazing skies. Enhancement on the image here brightens it up, because we're actually almost along to evening now. And --


Yes, Virginia, there is actually a Bunyip Hotel! In Cavendish, in the evening light, before we headed north again up the west side of the mountains...


We'd been hoping to get some great shots of the Grampians in the evening light, but the skies were too heavy, and sunset "didn't happen." Well, it did, for eight seconds, with a few shades of pink. But the drive was lovely, the scenery starkly beautiful.



At last! Like magic, the sky cleared for our last day in Halls Gap. We were at Boroka Lookout in the very early morning. Glorious! Then it was off to Mackenzie Falls, where we spent half the time photographing wildflowers, which are at their best at this time of year. Here's a wild orchid --



-- and below, the actual falls, seen from one of the high lookouts. Again, not much water in evidence, which doesn't bode well for summer, I think. We knew of one more waterfall, Beehive Falls, off thr Roses Gap road, so while the sun shone we thought we'd give it a go...



Perfect weather, a wonderful hike, stunning rock formations, wildflowers in profusion ... but the falls was a mere trickle. Nothing there. But the hike itself was a huge pleasure. Good thing, because this was a wrap on our last day in the region! Time to pack and clean out the fridge in the morning.

We'd decided to come home on the Princes Highway, via Naracoorte, and by the time we reached Mount Arapiles the weather was awful. You can drive to the top of Arapile, and the view --


-- is fantastic. But I barely managed to get a shot of the mountain itself, because the light levels were so low. From Arapiles, we headed for the Princes Highway and turned west...


Stretch the legs at Sundial Park in Kingston SE. The road sign, leaving town, tells all. Adelaide is still almost 300k away, via Salt Creek, Meningie, Tailem Bend, Wellington (the ferry), Strathalbyn, and so forth. Below: top: leaving Kingston SE. Center: You're looking at Salt Creek. All of it. Bottom: Meningie. Not stopping -- it's getting late, and there's still a looong way to go:




Over the river, head through Langhorne and turn northwards for Strathalbyn. Mother Nature had one last treat for us:


Sunset, somewhere on the road home, I actually forget where! Somewhere between Langhorne and Strathalbyn?? From here, you'll be home in about seventy-five minutes. Phew! That's another one to cross off the bucket-list! This time, I actually drove for a while, too. Now, where to next ...?!

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Meningie - Wellington - Strathalbyn again ... almost home

With the weather changing, it was time to leave the mesmerizing world of the Coorong, headed --
-- into the dairy country around Meningie, where ... ye gods! The UFOs have landed! No, it's just water tanks,
crowned with quite an array of microwave relay aerials. 
Hang a right: we'll be circumnavigating Lake Alexandrina on the way home...
"No Diving," says the sign ... while diving would be a pretty neat trick off Meningie's old jetty -- which ended
long before it reached any water, in 2009! This is Lake Albert, which connects with Lake Alexandrina" We're used to
seeing the lakes from the Milang Side, of course.
Meningie is a popular destination in the region -- a much bigger town than Milang. But we prefer
the peace and quiet of the Milang area.
As you round the lake and approach the Wellington Ferry from the east side, one thing you can count on
is that the weather will be changeable. This shot, and the next, are actually borrowed from our 2011 trip to
Mount Gambier, but they illustrate this point so perfectly, why not borrow them?
Change in the weather (in 2011), waiting for the Wellington Ferry to come back across...
...and here's the exact same place in 2009. Get out of the car, stretch the legs while waiting for the ferry...
A long, long zoom shot of colonial ruins which stand abandoned not far from the river. The region is
full of history drowsing side by side with technology.
There goes the ferry on its way to Wellington. We just missed it. Ten minutes later --
Here it comes, headed for Tailem Bend. Time to get back in the car -- they don't take long to unload.
Halfway across, shooting out of the window -- and already hearing the ruckus! Like Strathalbyn, Wellington
is the home to huge flocks of little corellas ... and when they mill around, they shriek as only wild parrots can.
Little corellas are cousins to sulphur crested cockatoos -- both are common in South Australia.
Invasion of the little corellas! They were everywhere at Wellington on this trip in 2009.
...the trees are full of them, and every ten minutes they'll take off, swirl around in a great cloud,
shriek for the sheer fun of it, and then settle right back down again.
The road back to Stathalbyn takes you through miles and miles of agriculture.
And here we are back at Strathalbyn, where we began --
Ducks graze the parklands, while the Angas River bridge heads across to the bandstand and, beyond, the church.
Wall art ... actually, it's the public rest room beside the park, and -- never miss the chance to
decorate a wall, right?
Detail from the wall art at Strathalbyn ...
-- the work is astonishing, and so beautiful --
-- an unexpected pleasure in the evening light, just before we headed for home.
Evening light o the towers of St. Andrew's church. And now ... time to head home for dinner: we'll
be there in an hour or so.
From the Coorong through to Meningie, all you can do is put your foot down hard, let the Princess Highway zip past at the speed limit, because there's not much there (though it's not as desolate as the area between Milang and Lanhorne Creek, which might as easily be a location on Mars). As you get closer to Lake Albert, on the shore of which Meningie sits, the air becomes, um, shall we say "redolent with the aroma of agriculture." In other words, it's dairy country, with about a thousand times more cows out to pasture than there are people in the region ... your nose will certainly confirm this statistic!

 Meningie itself is a popular holiday spot for folks from far afield; it's quite a large, busy town, though we much prefer the depthless peace and quiet of the Milang-Clayton-Finiss region on the "home side" of Lake Alexandrina. In 2009 the water levels were low (too little rain -- which is becoming way too predictable in South Australia of late; troublingly predictable), and we could only chuckle at the sign stipulating "No Diving!" from a jetty that didn't get anywhere near the lake. Interestingly, "Meningie" is an Australian Aborigine word meaning "mud hole." One imagines the climate used to be a whole lot wetter in the past! (The map to left is a screencap from Google -- see it full sized, if you want to get a grasp on the geography -- it's quite readable.)

Then ... Wellington Ferry again, and the run through to Strathalbyn, where we stopped for a stretch of legs, snack and tea (or coffee, if you prefer; the picnic basket is always well stocked), before we headed home. Wellington had been invaded by little corellas in 2009, very likely the same flocks as gather in Strathalbyn too. They're great to watch, not so great to listen to, since they're LOUD!!

With evening light settling and dinner in mind, we headed straight for home ... which, on the above map, and at the time, was approximated by the "Marion" you see due south of Adelaide. (We've moved since then.)  And "it's a wrap!" That was it for another road trip. Now, where to next?!

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