Showing posts with label Salt Creek. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Salt Creek. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Return to the Grampians

All these images are from my phone. This trip took place over three months ago, and due to one thing and another I still haven't even started to go through the camera archives yet, though it was simple enough to go through the phone pics and chronicle the trip. The truth is, for 80% of the trip, the weather was horrible. I took about a quarter as many photos as I'd imagined I would, and in rotten-light conditions, the phone does a job almost as good as the camera. So -- let's run with the phone pictures, yes?

The trip all started with a stack of baggage ... you'd have thought we were off to Antarctica for six months! No ... "just" the Grampians for five days:


Getting out early, you cross the Murray River at Wellington...


...and you aim for breakfast in Keith, on the Duke's Highway, only to discover that it's actually lunch by the time you get there! So --


-- the Henry + Rose Cafe, very nice, with good food. The weather was steadily going downhill as we headed east, though, but the sun still shone in patches, between broad cloud banks:


The state line is right there. Welcome to Victoria ... and slow down. The speed limit is lower, east of the border. So -- onward, through little towns and agricultural communities...


Above: canola fields near Kanvia. The Duke's Highway turns into the Western Highway at the border, but we always think of it as "east," not west! This time around, we left the main E-W highway at Nhill, turning south to take a look at the Little Desert National Park --


-- which, to South Aussie eyes doesn't actually look like a desert at all. Maybe it's seasonal? So much of SA looks like this pretty much all the time, one is reluctant to call it a desert. Then, it's not so far from there to the beautiful Wartook Valley. And whaddaya know --


Above: A rainbow over Wartook Valley. Now, that bodes well. You see the Grampians low down on the horizon from the valley. While Dave stretched the legs I played with the phone, and managed to get a selfie where I didn't look like Marley's Ghost:


There you are -- that proves I was on the trip! Dave did take a few shots of me here and there, and I managed to get several of him. He likes to play around, so pictures of him are often something of a laugh riot. And why not?

You don't have time to tarry long on breaks ... not if you want to get there on the same day! Apparently, you can drive Adelaide to Halls Gap in six hours, but we usually take nine or ten over it. Then again, we always get there safely, without being totally wasted. So.

When you head into the National Park, all at once the road turns UP, and twists and twines constantly for about the next 30k. Glorious views from the roadside as evening settles --


Above: Lake Wartook, the reservoir, seen from Reid's Lookout. It was actually quite dark by now; enhancement on the image brightens it up. It had also been raining recently...


Halls Gap was quite damp as well as quite dark. (And you can see what I mean about the weather. When it didn't actually rain, the sky was deeply overcast. Mostly, I put away the camera and just sat back for the trip!)

Time to check in, unload, get dinner, sleep. We were booked into the Halls Gap Log Cabins:




Wonderful ... all the comforts of home. Each cabin is like a small house, with every amenity imaginable, with the exception of a washer and dryer. And who wants to do laundry on  trip?!


Above: Rainy, misty and COLD in the morning. Luckily, we'd got brilliant pictures back in March, because the images from Cathedral Rock (seen here off the Mount William road) are gray and soft. Rain was threatening, and the wind cut like a knife. The cold abated a little by the time we arrived at Sundial Lookout and took the Lake View Lookout trail:




Still not warm, but not so windy, and the mist was clearing. I crossed my fingers, hoping to get good photos as the say went on. So, leaving Sundial, we headed to Silver Band Falls, which is a good hike down into a gorge to reach this:



Not a heck of a lot of water in it, when you consider that this is the end of the rainy season, and it should be running hard and fast. Hmm. So -- back on the road. Below, top: Mount Zero Road. Center: Canola fields in Wartook Valley, looking toward the Grampians. Bottom:  Sunset from Reid Lookout. It wasn't spectacular at all ... too much heavy weather.




Next morning we spent a couple of hours at the Brambuk Cultural Centre, which is a chastening experience. One is rocked back by the history of this country's indigenous people. I find it astonishing that any of them survived at all, and ... so sad. One could wish for a time machine, go back and change it, find the people responsible, and stop them ever arriving in Australia...



From Brambuk, we headed outward to explore. Lunch found us on the freezing, wind-swept heights of One Tree Hill above the town of Ararat. Yes, we visited Mount Ararat earlier; I photographed that with the cameras, not this phone. It's not what you'd call ... spectacular, but we did it! However, the views from the top of One Tree were amazing:


And from Ararat we headed back around the Grampians in a great circle. The area south of Ararat is big on canola, and the afternoon sun shone, making for some stunning photos at last:




By the time we were south of the Grampians and about to head back up the west side, toward Wartook, we'd run back into gray weather. This is Mt. Sturgeon, near Dunkeld ... the Grampians end (or begin!) right here, on the south tip of the range.


Dunkeld to Cavendish offered some amazing skies. Enhancement on the image here brightens it up, because we're actually almost along to evening now. And --


Yes, Virginia, there is actually a Bunyip Hotel! In Cavendish, in the evening light, before we headed north again up the west side of the mountains...


We'd been hoping to get some great shots of the Grampians in the evening light, but the skies were too heavy, and sunset "didn't happen." Well, it did, for eight seconds, with a few shades of pink. But the drive was lovely, the scenery starkly beautiful.



At last! Like magic, the sky cleared for our last day in Halls Gap. We were at Boroka Lookout in the very early morning. Glorious! Then it was off to Mackenzie Falls, where we spent half the time photographing wildflowers, which are at their best at this time of year. Here's a wild orchid --



-- and below, the actual falls, seen from one of the high lookouts. Again, not much water in evidence, which doesn't bode well for summer, I think. We knew of one more waterfall, Beehive Falls, off thr Roses Gap road, so while the sun shone we thought we'd give it a go...



Perfect weather, a wonderful hike, stunning rock formations, wildflowers in profusion ... but the falls was a mere trickle. Nothing there. But the hike itself was a huge pleasure. Good thing, because this was a wrap on our last day in the region! Time to pack and clean out the fridge in the morning.

We'd decided to come home on the Princes Highway, via Naracoorte, and by the time we reached Mount Arapiles the weather was awful. You can drive to the top of Arapile, and the view --


-- is fantastic. But I barely managed to get a shot of the mountain itself, because the light levels were so low. From Arapiles, we headed for the Princes Highway and turned west...


Stretch the legs at Sundial Park in Kingston SE. The road sign, leaving town, tells all. Adelaide is still almost 300k away, via Salt Creek, Meningie, Tailem Bend, Wellington (the ferry), Strathalbyn, and so forth. Below: top: leaving Kingston SE. Center: You're looking at Salt Creek. All of it. Bottom: Meningie. Not stopping -- it's getting late, and there's still a looong way to go:




Over the river, head through Langhorne and turn northwards for Strathalbyn. Mother Nature had one last treat for us:


Sunset, somewhere on the road home, I actually forget where! Somewhere between Langhorne and Strathalbyn?? From here, you'll be home in about seventy-five minutes. Phew! That's another one to cross off the bucket-list! This time, I actually drove for a while, too. Now, where to next ...?!

Friday, January 31, 2014

All posts in order: Naracoorte 2009, done and dusted

Alexandra Cave, Naracoote 

Naracoorte 2009: Preview
...where we're headed, what's on the agenda, from wetlands to wet caves and a dry lagoon,  limestone caverns, Larry the Biiig Lobster, the Coorong, and a lot more.







St. Andrew's, Strathalbyn

Strathalbyn and points east
Cloudy skies in the morning ... Wellington Ferry ... Tailem Bend for lunch, and on into grain country -- Coomandook, Coonaplyn and Culbara. 








Land Rover on a Pole: Keith

Keith - Padthaway - Naracoorte
The Land Rover on a pole (the real deal!), the wind harp, and the swimming lake ... it's a long haul from Tailem Bend to Naracoorte!







Wonambi Fossil Centre

The Wonambi Fossil Centre and the Alexandra Cave
Breakfast by the lake ... wrestling skeletons at Wonambi ... and let's get underground on the Limestone Coast!







Megafauna!

Megafauna! And ... where's the water? Bool Lagoon in 2009
Extinct creatures are brought to life, we step back in time in the Wet Cave, and then the bird sactuary of Bool Lagoon turns out to be ... well, in a word...







The Big Lobster, Kingston S.E.

Fossils and Ibis and Lobsters -- oh, my!
The Victoria Fossil Cave ... Thylacaleo in person ... ibis in profusion, horses on vacation, the world's oddest sundial, the lighthouse that came ashore, and -- Larry the Lobster himself! In other words, Naracoorte to Kingston S.E., in time for lunch.






The Coorong, near Salt Creek

The Coorong at last -- and the sun shone!
The Princess Highway ... Salt Creek ... a lot of black swans and a little bit of history ... and the Coorong is so pretty in the sunshine. Perfect!







Murray River, Wellington Ferry

Meningie - Wellington - Strathalbyn: almost home
Leaving the Coorong, heading home via the dairy country and Meningie on Lake Albert. Around the Lakes District to Wellington, which has been invaded by parrots; then evening light over Strathalbyn...

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

The Coorong at last ... and the sun shone

The Coorong -- this is where we're headed, from Kingston S.E., and to get there...
... we would drive a looong stretch of the Princess Highway bordered on the inland side by salt flats...
...to the bustling landmark of Salt Creek. It doesn't even show on Google's regional map!
Meals, drinks, bait and tackle -- ah! Bathrooms! And --
The obligatory (educational; useful) information board: welcome to the Coorong. Dave checks out the map.
The lady in the shot is a traveler, not Jade -- Jade was taking the photos.
Opposite the board, t'other side of the road is Salt Creek itself. If only Bool Lagoon had been this wet!
A flock of black swans were feeding, under brooding skies --
A lot of enhancement makes this image bright and colorful, which was far from the truth!
Just so you know where you are...
-- and, a little history before we head off in search of ice cream! 
In the years since this photo was taken, the masked plover population has dwindled to just a couple
of dozen pairs of birds. In a few years more, they won't be seen at all in the South East, which is sad.
On the road from Salt Creek you'll see numerous signs like this. Follow the Loop Road --
-- and find your way to the shore. This is the Coorong ... that's Younghusband Peninsula across the water.
The sun shone again, just at the right moment for us to get good pictures. What looks like snow on the low hills
of Younghusband Peninsula is pristine white sand...
The Coorong at low tide, with a fair sailing breeze cranking up.
Back on the Princess Highway, through miles of saltbush, looking for the next Loop Road sign...
-- and the next discovery of a very different world...

The loudest sound was the wind in the low shrubs, and gulls on the tidal zone. Lovely.
The mid-water islands of the Coorong are protected as pelican nesting sites.
And yes, the weather s changing rapidly ... take the pictures, quick!
We were so lucky to get sunshine and bright conditions, just for a few hours! Look at that sky --
you can see what's coming in, and it's not far away now.
These plants apparently grow in salt water, and they taste -- well, salty enough to be a condiment.
These look like very ancient rocks, and if you look closer, they're often full of fossils -- see below.
Like a shot from The Lost World...
Just one of hundreds of tiny, beautiful coves on the Coorong.
Take a moment to look down. Shells are fossilized in the limestone matrix of the rocks -- everywhere.
Time to be moving again ... we've a long way to go to get home -- and this sign shows you how far
we've come since leaving Kingston S.E. (Aussie road signs read in kilometers, of course.)
From Kingston S.E. you stay on the Princess Highway, point the car at Adelaide and tramp hard on the loud pedal -- it'd be difficult to get lost, because it's the only road. Eventually you'll find your way to Meningie, on the east side of Lake Alexandrina, but it's a looong drive to get there, and along the way you'll be glad to discover Salt Creek -- a roadhouse and a body of water, not a town -- and, yes! The Coorong itself.

This was what we were out to see, and during the morning we'd worried that the weather was changing so rapidly, conditions would be too dark to get good pictures. We were lucky. Just as we left Salt Creek the clouds ripped apart and the sun shone. It wouldn't shine for long, but while it did we visited several of the tiny, secluded bays where the loudest sound was the cry of a gull and the sound of the wind in saltbush.

A lot of boating and fishing goes on in these waters, but the tide was low when we went through. No boats ... just us and the sea and the wind. We could have stayed a lot longer, but we had many miles to travel yet, even to get back to the ferry at Wellington, so we couldn't tarry.

The plan is to go back one day, and stay much longer!

Next: Meningie, Wellington, back in Strathalbyn ... almost home.

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