Showing posts with label megafauna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label megafauna. Show all posts

Friday, January 31, 2014

All posts in order: Naracoorte 2009, done and dusted

Alexandra Cave, Naracoote 

Naracoorte 2009: Preview
...where we're headed, what's on the agenda, from wetlands to wet caves and a dry lagoon,  limestone caverns, Larry the Biiig Lobster, the Coorong, and a lot more.







St. Andrew's, Strathalbyn

Strathalbyn and points east
Cloudy skies in the morning ... Wellington Ferry ... Tailem Bend for lunch, and on into grain country -- Coomandook, Coonaplyn and Culbara. 








Land Rover on a Pole: Keith

Keith - Padthaway - Naracoorte
The Land Rover on a pole (the real deal!), the wind harp, and the swimming lake ... it's a long haul from Tailem Bend to Naracoorte!







Wonambi Fossil Centre

The Wonambi Fossil Centre and the Alexandra Cave
Breakfast by the lake ... wrestling skeletons at Wonambi ... and let's get underground on the Limestone Coast!







Megafauna!

Megafauna! And ... where's the water? Bool Lagoon in 2009
Extinct creatures are brought to life, we step back in time in the Wet Cave, and then the bird sactuary of Bool Lagoon turns out to be ... well, in a word...







The Big Lobster, Kingston S.E.

Fossils and Ibis and Lobsters -- oh, my!
The Victoria Fossil Cave ... Thylacaleo in person ... ibis in profusion, horses on vacation, the world's oddest sundial, the lighthouse that came ashore, and -- Larry the Lobster himself! In other words, Naracoorte to Kingston S.E., in time for lunch.






The Coorong, near Salt Creek

The Coorong at last -- and the sun shone!
The Princess Highway ... Salt Creek ... a lot of black swans and a little bit of history ... and the Coorong is so pretty in the sunshine. Perfect!







Murray River, Wellington Ferry

Meningie - Wellington - Strathalbyn: almost home
Leaving the Coorong, heading home via the dairy country and Meningie on Lake Albert. Around the Lakes District to Wellington, which has been invaded by parrots; then evening light over Strathalbyn...

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Megafauna! And ... where's the water? Bool Lagoon in 2009

Megafauna! He's diprotodon, a rhino-scaled (extinct!) marsupial, closely related to the wombat.
The exhibit is set up in a cavern ... a dark one! ... behind/under the Wonambi Fossil Centre. These flash shots
make it look bright -- it's not; strange creatures loom up out of the gloom. Cool!
Here's what Wikipedia says about this guy: "Zygomaturus trilobus was a smaller (bullock-sized, about two
metres long by one metre high) diprotodontid that may have had a short trunk. It appears to have lived
in wetlands, using two fork-like incisors to shovel up reeds and sedges for food."
The info boards around the display are really neat -- designed to be like
pages from the notebooks of a research scientist in the field...
He's Procoptodon, what they call a "short-faced kangaroo," and tree-browsing, which means he has some of the
characteristics of a koala. Very odd indeed ... and very big!
It's over to Wikipedia to put a caption on this one! Here's what they say of this guy:
"Varanus priscus (formerly Megalania prisca) was a giant, carnivorous goanna that might have grown
to as long as 7 metres (23 feet), and weighed up to 1,940 kilograms (Molnar, 2004)."
And this beast was a giant tapir, over eight feet long -- Palorchestes. 
He's either a Tasmanian Devil, or very similar: a carnivorous marsupial. 
Back into the sunlight, on our way to a self-guided treat: Naracoorte's Wet Cave.
Visitors clamber down somewhat daunting flights of steps. Its quite steep, but safe -- perhaps not for
people with vertigo problems, or trick knees! 
The floor of the cave is almost tropical: it's humid, and the part where the
sun slants in is home to tree ferns and lizards.
Deeper into the Wet Cave, water and limestone have worked their magic...
one is almost on the lookout for Shelob.
Turn around and look back -- it's like a scene from The Lost World!
... or perhaps A Journey to the Center of the Earth. It was exotically lovely down there.
This cave is open, you amble about at whim ... and it's big. Here's Dave, for a sense of scale...
As you go deeper yet, the ceiling comes down and there's a marvelous gallery with fantastic acoustics.
Starting to feel the need for lunch, we thought -- "Picnic at Bool Lagoon," and hit the road...
The land up top is very dry ... now we know where all that water goes!
On the access road to Bool Lagoon, the land gets even drier. The word is arid. Parched. Barren.
And flat. Not quite as flat as Kansas, of course, but ... no flying houses, either.
Mother Nature is sending us messages: the weather is changing. The forecast it all in that sky.
Bool Lagoon. You're looking at it. Something's missing ... like, the water!
A snapshot of one of the illustrations on the info board. This is what it's supposed to look like --
Wetlands? Really? Waterbirds?! Uh ... not this season, folks!
But birds are not the only critters living here. We actually saw one of these -- heading as fast as he could
away from the weird humans, way too fast to be photographed.
Fields of reeds stretch to a distant horizon, but not a bird was to be seen, nor even heard. Well, dang.
So -- how about lunch, instead? That's not Lola. That's the trusty old Holden Camira we had for a long, long
time before she quite literally reached the end of the road. We had miles and miles of fun in that little car. 
The picnic/camping ground was bright and fragrant with glorious flowering native trees. Ker-choo!
One side of the camping ground borders a paddock, with a flock of inquisitive sheep hugging the shade.
The other side of the camping ground ought to be the lake, with the water birds. 
Suitably refueled, we hiked the walking trail through the "wetlands," looking for those birds ... any birds...
You can see why we'd had high hopes! Because these "flats" should have been lakes --
This is actually the lake bed. A couple of years later, we returned to Bool Lagool, and this was flooded --
birds galore. Also, that time, "horizontal rain" that froze your bone marrow!
Our tickets were in Dave's wallet for the guided tour of the Victoria Fossil Cave, so --
time to hit the road for the drive back to Naracoorte!

Behind -- or beneath -- the Wonambi Fossil Centre is a fantastic standing exhibit of prehistoric Australia. Usually, it's dinosaurs that get people excited, but it would be fairly hair-raising to be chased by a 23-foot, flesh eating goanna tipping the scales at two tonnes!

The exhibit is set up in a dim, dim cavern, so that strange creatures loom up; it simulates night very realistically. Most of these creatures would have been nocturnal, like modern-day kangaroos and koalas, so you're seeing them in their natural setting. There's also a very realistic audio component, with speakers set in the underbrush, and in the warrens, burrows and caves off to the side. You can really believe creatures are moving, hissing, growling there.

Sorting the images for this post -- close to five years after they were captured -- Jade spent a half hour on a Wikipedia page, identifying the animals. If you're interested, you must check this out.

After Wonambi we were getting hungry, so we decided to head over to Bool Lagoon Game Reserve for lunch and bird spotting. Bool offers supposedly just about the finest wetlands in the state. Wellll ... not this season. It was absolutely dry in March 2009. We even hiked out by the walking trails, hoping to see birds, but they were elsewhere. (A couple of years later we returned to this location, and it was flooded; a million birds were on the water ... the sky was low with an incoming weather front, and when the rain began it was "sideways," and like ice! Light levels,then, were so low, photography was practically impossible. We haven't -- yet -- had good luck at Bool Lagoon.)

So, a picnic lunch appeared from the trunk of the dear old Camira (which has by now gone the way of almost all cars, replaced by Lola, the Mitsubishi Magna, and the Millennium Possum itself). A flock of recently-shorn sheep looked on, and then --

Time to be moving, to be back at the Victoria Fossil Cave in time for the guided tour! And that's where we're going in the next post.

Monday, January 13, 2014

The Wonambi Fossil Centre and the Alexandra Cave

The gate guard at the Wonambi Fossil Centre is a wombat the size of a rhino ... long-extinct megafauna
But first, breakfast by the Naracoorte swimming lake. Bacon and eggs in the early morning light. Nice.
It was too chilly to take a dip, alas, but here's the history of the lake. Then -- off to the caves...
Welcome to the Naracoorte Caves National Park ... and there's that rhino-sized wombat!

The Wonambi Fossil Centre in the morning light --
-- the fun begins right inside. Wahoo -- we're here at last, and to prove it --
A truly gigantic, long-extinct, tree-browsing, koala-faced kangaroo dominates the foyer.
To give you a sense of the scale of this thing, here's Dave standing right beside it ... and Dave is tall!
Skeletons locked in mortal combat ... dang, should have taken notes here!
One normally gets excited about dinosaurs, but some of this megafauna is awesome.
Think sabretooth wombat! about the size of a horse! Who even needs raptors? 
Don't let the Disneyesque smiling face fool you. He's the size of a rhino, likely with a disposition to match!
Next on the agenda: let's get underground --
Here we go, the eager tour group following the guide. See the door inset into a hillside...
Just inside, you clamber down some steel steps, and pause in awe...
The Alexandra Cave is only one of many caves at -- under! -- the Naracoorte region.
Some of the tour group, illuminated by incessant flash photography.
Limestone Coast makes for limestone caverns, right? Makes sense ... remember the underground sea of
fresh water back at Keith; think about the Twelve Apostles (and we're going there soon!) ...
The hardest thing about getting great photos in a cave like the
Alexandra Cave at Naracoorte is -- duh -- the lighting...
Flash photography will certainly give you a sharp image, but the cost is, it burns everything out. So...
Cave photography means using flash judiciously,
choosing your subject specifically...

...and experimenting with a "masked flash." To get detail and color in the central
"wedding cake" here, Jade held a folded tissue over the flash to stop some of the light.
The masked flash gives you a happier medium between full-on flash and the "fun" of trying to hold
the camera still, by hand, through loooong exposures. 

Nitro-fingers! This shot was done by just holding the camera still for a loooong exposure.
In the Alexandra Cave you could take hundreds of shots. There's something new everywhere you look. 

When we stepped out the next morning, it was astonishingly chilly, and also humid. We could barely seen the car for a sea of condensation, and Jade was rugged up, scarf and all. Dave was not even 10 years out of Alaska at this point, and still careless of the cold -- and in any case the morning warmed swiftly.

First stop: a picnic area with a gazebo where one could set out a portable stove and cook breakfast. There's nothing like the smell of bacon and eggs frying in the open air, with a day of exploring ahead! We went back to the swimming lake, which had the gazebos (and bathrooms), and from there --

Straight on to the Wonambi Fossil Centre. The centre itself is a great destination, and we'd be returning to it for a hike through the subterranean display ... more about this later. This time through, we were just buying tickets for the guided tours of the tours of the Alexandra Cave and the Victoria Fossil Cave, and we weren't disappointed.

Jade at least had expected it to be cold underground, so wore a sweater and took a scarf, but in fact the whole cavern -- and it's vast! -- is at a uniform temperature, which felt like about 70 degrees; and it's very humid indeed. Jade soon wished she's layered a windbreaker over a teeshirt. Oh, well, she'd know next time!

And the cavern was amazing. Something like 500 pictures were taken between the two cameras, and some of the best shots are above, here, and also on Dave's blog. In fact, Dave zipped a Flickr slideshow of the best 50 of the pictures -- far more than could be displayed in any blog post. So long as you've got the proper Flash player, you'll be able to watch this:



Next, it was on to Bool Langoon, in the few hours we had spare before the tour of the Victoria Fossil Cave -- and this will be in the next post.
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