The plan had been a road trip to the Limestone Coast, but the pandemic changed all this, due to the proximity to Victoria, which at the time was on the strictest lockdown. Instead, we spent the week doing day trips ... and for a week when we had to dodge showers and dress for winter, we did an amazing amount. The forecast had been for rain and unseasonable cold, and this didn't tell the half of it ... snow fell in South Australia on Friday -- luckily, we'd done our day trip into the Flinders Ranges on Thursday, because the storm which brought the snow was coming in just as we drove south! We might have been lucky once or twice ... in retrospect, if the heavy weather had arrived even 12 hours earlier, we could have been caught out in the wilderness when the "floodways" started to run, unable to get back to civilization! I guess Dave's guardian angel was looking out for us, because we didn't get caught, and we did have a fantastic time...
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| Salvation Jane -- "Patterson's Curse" -- in full bloom |
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| This isn't the wilderness, but you can see it from here! |
I wouldn't have believed you could do this in a day ... Flinders Ranges, out and back, between 6:00am and 9:30pm, including a storm?! It had to be a joke. But no -- it turned out to be perfectly doable; and this was Thursday in "vacation week." (Previously, we'd stayed in our own neck of the woods, getting as far afield as the Laratinga Wetlands on the other side of Mount Barker, and Mannum (it rained), via Mount Pleasant (so cold, I had to drink hot chocolate to get back to life); and on Saturday we headed south and stumbled over the Ferries McDonald Conservation Park, where the wildflowers and orchids are in full bloom.)
But Thursday was the day to hit the road early. The sun was barely up when we left, and the magic works because the Northern Expressway whisks you through the city and out so fast. Before you know it, you're north of Port Wakefield, and looking forward to breakfast with a view of the pink lake at Lochiel, on the euphoniously named Lake Bumbunga. No, that's not a typo. From then on, you put your foot down and tramp it. In convoy with an enormous number of trucks going both ways, you're headed for Port Broughton, Port Pirie, Port Augusta -- but you're not stopping. Blast straight through, and bear right just as you see Port Augusta in the distance ... you're on your way to Quorn, known as the Gateway to the Flinders Ranges. And yes, you can do it, from home, by about 11:00am!
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| Emus in the wild -- bigger and redder than you see them down south in the Adelaide Hills |
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| Flinders Ranges pastoral country ... cattle country, in fact. |
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| You're soon off the beaten path. The roads are in good condition, and a car can handle them ... until or unless it starts to rain, and the "flooodways" fill up fast. In retrospect, I think we were lucky! |
So ... Flinders Ranges in a day! Out before dawn, a sausage roll for breakfast at Locheal, with its pink lake, north of Port Wakefield, then lunch in Quorn, followed by three hours of tarryhooting on wilderness roads where the views are beyond amazing, before we turned for home at 4:00, with a four-and-a-half-hour drive ahead of us. We returned by a different rout ... Willmington, Gladstone, Laura, Clare, Gawler, at which point you connect with the Northern Expressway and you'll be home in less than an hour.
The trip had one last amazement in store for us:
As I mentioned before, the weather was due to change, big time, though we hadn't realized quite how violently it would change. In fact, in about twelve hours this storm front would be dumping snow on the Flinders Ranges! We drove right into it, at a time when it was all about torrential rain. The kind of rain where your wipers can barely keep pace. Spectacular -- also a wake-up call, to be a little more careful and plan a bit more assiduously next time! Because we'll definitely be going back; the only questions are when and how!
